The electric bass and/or electric guitar have a basic set of guidelines to help you get the most out of your playing experience.  Things you should understand such as how to tune and maintain your instrument can make the difference between a comfortable and enjoyable experience and one of frustration. 
After spending years as a guitarist and then giving up music completely only to return to playing music again, this time as a bassist; SpectorCentral's founder has spent the last few years learning all he can about the wonderful world of Spector® basses and electric guitars.  He did this mainly so he can enjoy his own humble collection of Spector instruments, but he's also the type of person who likes to understand how things work so he can care for them without the need for additional assistance. 

This section of SpectorCentral is where you can find answers to some basic care and maintenance questions.
SPECTOR 101
Here are some basic tips on caring for your Spector® Bass or Guitar (in no particular order):
  • NEVER leave your Spector® Bass plugged in when you are not playing it.  The plug when inserted completes the circuit and allows power from the battery to flow to the tone circuit and pickups.  Leaving your bass plugged in can cause your battery to leak, damaging the electronics in your bass.

  • INVEST in two sets of rechargeable 9v batteries for each bass you have.  I have one set in each of my basses and the next set ready for charging and installation.  I swap the batteries out every 6-months to ensure optimal charge.  This will save you a small fortune in batteries over time (the more you play the faster they die) and it's environmentally responsible.  I use Lenmar professional Nickel-Metal Hydride rechargeable batteries.
     
  • NEVER attempt to adjust the truss rod of your bass while the strings are tuned and/or under tension.  Bass strings (sometimes referred to as "cables" because of their large size) exert an enormous amount of pressure on your guitar's neck.  Attempting to adjust the truss rod while your strings are under tension can strip the threads of your truss rod, causing damage to your bass.

  • ALLOW your bass to warm up inside its gig bag or case for an hour before taking it out if you've been travelling between locations in cold or freezing weather.  The same thing for bringing your bass into a cool air conditioned space when it's been in the heat. 

    Different woods will expand and contract at different speeds due to their density.  The same goes for the differences between wood and metal.  If your bass has gotten very cold and you expose it to a warm (heated) room without allowing it to adjust properly, your finish can crack, fissures between the layers of wood can develop, and other types of damage can occur.  The same goes for exposing your bass to a cool room after it's been in a really warm location.

  • NEVER leave your bass or guitar in direct sunlight.  Direct sunlight can damage the finish (bleach the stain depending on the color) dry out the woods and cause expansion of metal parts which can lead to issues such as fret problems.

  • NEVER leave your bass or guitar in the trunk of your car, or back seat, unattended in either extremely warm or cold weather.  Think of your bass like a dog or cat.  Sounds funny, but think of it like this, if it's a place you wouldn't want to leave your dog or cat, don't leave your bass or guitar there.

  • NECK RESTING - Allowing the neck of your bass or guitar to adjust to new environmental factors such as humidity, cold or heat is referred to as allowing the neck to rest.  I've also found that when adjusting a bass guitar's neck (truss rod) the best results happen after allowing the neck to rest for several hours and then checking your setting again.

  • STRETCH your new strings before tuning them the first time.  I use a soft polishing cloth and grab the string from underneath (the side that will touch the frets (or neck with a fretless) and I use my right hand to pull upward exerting steady pressure while using my left hand to push down (towards the neck) about 5-6 inches apart.  I pull the string about 2-3 inches off the neck, starting at the 1st fret and working down the neck to the bridge saddle.  I repeat this on each string and then tune the strings for the first time. 

    Once tuned I'll stretch them again.  Then I'll tune and check intonation.

  • USE Dunlop Formula 65 Products!  From the Fingerboard Cleaner and Conditioner to the Body Polish and Wax, it's the best stuff you're going to find and it's the only product approved by Stuart Spector for his basses and guitars. 
     
  • CHECK the moisture of your fingerboard regularly.  If you live in a dry climate or high altitude, the wood used for your bass or guitar's fingerboard (Pau Ferro, Ebony or Birdseye Maple for USA Series, Rosewood, Ebony or Maple for Europe Series, or Rosewood for all Professional and Performer Series Models) can dry out.  This can lead to issues with your frets, cracking and irreversible damage to your guitar. 

    I live in Southern California.  The place is as dry as you're likely to find and I live on a mountain 1,000ft off sea level.  I find that I need to apply the Dunlop Formula 65 Fingerboard Deep Conditioner every 3 months to ALL of my Spector Basses.  And I have basses with each type of neck. 

    NOTE that if you have a Premium Birdseye Maple Fingerboard and high gloss finish the fingerboard is sealed like the rest of the body.  Use the Dunlop body polish for this type of finish.  If you have a matte finished Maple Fingerboard use the Formula 65 for Maple Boards.  The standard Rosewood/Ebony conditioner will stain the lighter maple board if used. 
     
  • ONCE intonation is set on your bass you typically will not have to set it again unless you change the gauge of strings you are using.  I recently went from medium gauge Round-Wound string to medium gauge Flat-Wound strings on my basses and the intonation was still within acceptable range on each bass.  I did some very minor tweaking to get optimal intonation and on one of my basses (The Black Pearl) I didn't need to change/adjust anything.

  • RECONDITION dead strings by soaking them in denatured alcohol.  I know a guy who swears by washing them in the dish washer, and there are other methods such as boiling them. 

    I've found that the denatured alcohol works the best.  I have one set of strings that is over two years old that is going strong thanks to a 24 hour denatured alcohol bath.  Just be careful handling denatured alcohol because it is poisonous. 

  • RECYCLE your old strings, don't just throw them away. 

  • NEVER pick up your bass by it's headstock.  Grasp the body (I often grab the upper horn on my NS-Basses) to pick your bass up.  Remember: the neck of your bass is under enormous tension, so get into the habit of reducing any unnecessary stress/pressure on the neck.

  • INVEST in a good guitar stand that supports your bass or guitar's body and puts minimal stress/tension on the neck.  Stands by Ultimate Support and Hercules are my favorites.  I use Ultimate Supports for my photo shoots and use Hercules floor stands for daily use. 

  • IF SHIPPING a neck-thru the body design bass or guitar do not loosen the tension on the strings.  Keep it tuned. 
ALL THINGS SPECTOR - SPECTORCARE VIDEO - EP-1 THE TONEPUMP:
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